Indonesia ● Sumba ● Wanukaka
Spears of Pasola
Every February or March, colorful rituals display known as Pasola are held in western Sumba, Indonesia, to promote a lush rice planting season and harvest.
On horseback, villagers from opposing teams engage themselves with wooden spears in an effort to dismount the opponent. It requires skills for riding, accuracy, strength and a good mental.
The word Pasola means spear in the local language. According to legends, it took origins with a woman from the village of Waiwuang. When her husband, a local leader, left home for an extended period, she believed he was dead and went with a new lover from another village. After her first husband finally returned, the woman still chose to stay with her new lover. To forget their leader's sadness, the people of Waiwuang held the festival of Pasola.
Originally the participants rode horses and threw spears at each other in an attempt to spill blood to the ground, as a way to thanks the ancestors for a successful harvest and ensuring another prosperous rice harvest. The ritual changed over time into more of a teasing/fun battle. The spear tips are now blunt and their metal tips removed.
Whereas it was once considered as an honour to die during Pasola, only accidental deaths occasionally occur nowadays, even for tourists attempting the event.
The human and horse blood which used to drench the field is now from sacrificed animals like pigs, dogs and chickens.
Since 2010, Pasola is promoted as a game for visiting spectators. The event date traditionally begins when a certain kind of sea worm, Nyale, swims back to shore, signifying the end of the wet season and the beginning of crop-planting.
Horses are the soul of Sumba. With their remarkable endurance, easy temperament, and Arabian blood, they are both used for farm work and for Sumbanese racing. Since they have small stature, and easy to ride, children are often comfortable on horseback from a very young age. The sandalwood sport horses therefore are a highlight of strength and symbolism during the annual Pasola.
The day begins very early in the morning, at dawn. The elders from various clans form a march towards the beach. A ceremony follows, with the sacrifice of animals, for a meal. They bring blessing for the adventures of the day.
A crowd is already present to watch the sunrise.
Then the group leaves for the place where Pasola will take place. Along the way you can meet many people preparing their horses, clothes, sharing a coffee.
Arrived at the ground, a huge crowd of thousands of people is already there to attend the event.
The heavy heat is accentuated by the mass effect, as people form a circle close to the event. Everyone wants to have a better look, and so gradually gets closer, making the wandering spears within everyone's reach. The shouts from the spectators and riders bring the action to life. A real fight scene, like a boxing match.
Spears fly, but very often not into the right place. The wood is quite flexible, and the trajectories are not straight. As you can see, the hits are rare, at best the opponent manages to protect himself from the jet with his own spear as a shield. Some people of each team are designated to collect the spears on the ground, and bring them back on their side. They also have to watch their back, incase a spear is heading into them. One rider even felt inert from his horse, following a well-placed throw.
The result, the red team wins, with much more skills.
The spectators gradually leave the field, leaving almost only police troops, present incase the event heats up.
Families can now enjoy the rest of the day together. Indeed, many come from other regions. It is therefore an opportunity to meet again, to hear some news, or simply to have fun.
Welcome to Sumba island. Selamat datang di tanah Marapu.
